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Sewing stretch fabric with a sewing machine - part 1

2/22/2013

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I've had numerous questions related to sewing stretch fabric with a sewing machine so thought that I would do a mini-series with some tips & techniques just for the sewing machine.  Although a serger is ideal for working with stretch fabrics, it is very limited when sewing on a very small scale.

Needle & thread are basics needed to sew all fabrics however, selecting the ones best suited for stretch fabrics will make the project go so much more smoothly. 


Choose a sewing machine needle designed for stretch fabrics - these have a ball point.  Below are just 2 examples of specialty needles just for working with stretch fabric.  Schmetz has a terrific guide explaining the different types of needles & usage: Schmetz Needle Guide. 
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Sewing machine needles for stretch fabric
Choosing the correct type of thread is also really important.  When sewing with synthetic fabrics it is best to also use a synthetic thread to reduce thread snapping or breaking when the garment is put on.  Woolly Nylon is marketed for sergers but works beautifully with sewing machines as well.
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Thread for stretch fabric
I use a combination of thread types that I have found to give me the best result - Polyester thread for the upper thread & Woolly Nylon for the lower or bobbin thread.  Here is a comparison of the threads, polyester (left) & wolly nylon (right)
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Threads - Polyester & Woolly Nylon
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Wind bobbin with woolly nylon
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Polyester thread through needle & woolly nylon in the bobbin
I think that I will create a new section in Tips/Techniques for this topic & add to it as the series goes...stay tuned.

I am in the process of designing some BJD pattern & will make the first one for a stretch fabric.
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