Bias cut fabric has unique characteristics that allow it to be manipulated differently than fabric cut on the grain.  The bias has "give" or a bit of stretch so it can be adjusted as one sews to accommodate curves or corners.  It can be used in a variety of ways including embellishments.

The first step is finding the bias...a few tips in the tutorials section that can also be accessed by clicking on the photo below:

Building the pattern instructions is a meticulous exercise.  I use the basic structure of my pattern manuscript for this process.  Following the creation of the project from raw materials through to completion - the instructions need to shadow all actions taken during construction, in order to convey to the reader how to do the same thing.  Everything is documented in detail, the old fashioned way with pencil & paper:

- choice of fabrics & stablizers, measurement of each (length & width), possible alternates
- selection of embellishments (trims, beads, etc), identification of each one used, its length, size or quantity
- each tool used is catalogued
- every single step required to construct the project is written down
- photos are taken at every step along the way for inclusion in the pattern instructions
- certain steps simply do not show well in a photo so detailed diagrams must be drawn to supplement the written instruction

All the recorded information is then typed up, photos are re-sized & checked for clarity, supplementary diagrams drawn, various layouts (cutting, page, pattern assembly) included.  All of these elements are "stitched" together to form a PDF file.  The draft is printed & proofed before publication.

This is a rather time consuming process, particularly logging each step & photo taking.  If only it could be done as quickly as describing it...

It can be very frustrating to have a t-shirt or pair of pants only to find that the seam twists forward or a skirt that just doesn't hang correctly.  This is all a result of the pattern not placed correctly of the fabric grain.

Fabric grain affects the drape or how the fabric will hang.  After making the investment in fabric/trims/thread/patterns/etc, not to mention the time & effort to sew, cutting out the fabric on the correct grain is an essential step to getting a successful finished project.  

I have used for many years a rather simple method to determine grain & place the grain line of the pattern piece... making use of fabric selvage is the key.  This photo shows several examples of fabric selvage or the sides of the fabric.  

Embroidery was so beautiful in historical fashion.  Particularly fond of the Victorian & Edwardian era when the lovely handbags hung elegantly from a ladies wrist.  Petite but with such impact... 

New in "Handmade & Available" are the following reticules which feature rich embroidery & beading reminiscent of times past.

Every sewing project results in leftover fabric.  What to do with all the irregular pieces from cutting out a pattern...not large enough for another sewing pattern yet too big to just throw away.  Chiffon or similarly light weight sheer fabrics, in particular, are well suited to making lovely & delicate flowers.

To see this eco-friendly, easy & fun tutorial...select CHIFFON FLOWER TUTORIAL or click on the photo below.

Use the chiffon flower as an embellishment for any number of projects from hair clips, to garments, purses, gift bags, cards, shoe clips, pillows ... extremely versatile - imagine the possibilities.

Creating properly drawn & documented pattern pieces requires that they be computer generated.  Each draft pattern piece is transferred into vector graphics.  I prefer to include in all my patterns, full size pattern pieces rather than scaled representations.  Full sized pattern pieces are the easiest for everyone to use - no calculations, scaling or drawing required from the end user.  Pages are simply printed & sections taped together.

Once the pattern pieces have successfully passed the prototype stage and all adjustments have been made then they are ready for computerization.  Each piece is divided into sections that will fit onto a 8.5" x 11" page.  I don't cut the drafts but merely section them, using a pencil & ruler.  These smaller sections are easier to scan as well.  Vector graphics allows the images to be imported & lined up creating a full size image on the computer.  Now the lines are drawn, measurements are confirmed & all the necessary annotations (registration marks) added to allow the printed pieces to be reconnected easily.  Next to be added to each piece are pattern markings such as notches, dots, grain lines, cut on fold, seam allowance, pieces to cut, etc. and any other pattern details.  
  
The computer drawings further serve as the foundation for detailed sewing diagrams, cutting layouts, page layouts, assembly instructions, etc.

Success at the fabric store!  I found a great combination of fabrics for the next prototype.  Lovely shades of blue - a light blue Taffeta Moire for the main body, a medium blue Peau de Soie for the shoe and a complimentary light blue Satin for the lining.  The trims, ribbons and beads match perfectly. 

I found a beautiful pleated ivory ribbon that I just could not resist.  It unfortunately did not come in blue which is what I was hoping for so am not sure yet whether I will include it with this project.  If it is too light & too much of a contrast then will have to use the fabric to make a suitable alternative.  

The week turned out to be a bit busier than originally anticipated.  Tomorrow however is mine!  at least I hope it will be...  

The 2nd draft of the pattern turned out much better with a shape that is clearly from the desired time period.  As soon as it was finished, it immediately invoked a completely different vision of not only the colour scheme but the fabric choices as well. 
 
In exploring my inventory, I find that I have the correct fabric but not the preferred colour/shade.  The alternative colour choices, although quite lovely, just do not inspire the same spark.  So a trip to the fabric store is an absolute must before beginning the 2nd prototype.  

Alas domestic duties took centre stage today - family needs a domestic goddess every so often.  Going out to play had to be postponed, as I simply loose track of all time in a fabric store.  My family knows that such excursions can last the whole day & realize that the mantra is: "One must take every opportunity to research...".  It is wonderful to reconnoitre amid the latest fabrics & embellishments offered. 

Storage limitations however require a restricted approach to purchasing only those necessities in order to complete this project.  Armed with a detailed list, complete with attached samples of trims for colour matching, will...should...might...  

Naming a pattern might seem to be an easy task...  It is an important step in the process.  I like to use the product name as a form of branding, to identify the designer as well as the product.  Naming consistency will make the product and source distinguishable.

For me the ideal name is created or made up - it is distinctive, exotic, arcane if possible, alluring, and rare in occurrence (internet searches).  The objective is to be one-of-a-kind or very close to it.   So finding a suitable name takes quite some time & is an on-going throughout pattern development - from inception to publication.  

I use every possible resource available to me from historical books to online naming sites.  Here too, I use the same methodology as with the rough sketches...jotting down all ideas on the same page as the drawings.  Usually my pages are quite well used, all the way around the margins as well.  The internet is wonderful for checking the occurrences of the name to ensure that it is not already in use or too common.  The name's spelling is a key element.

"What's in a Name?" - does it give you a sense of character, does it conjure an image or make you wonder, are you intrigued...

I made a stocking with the draft pattern & it looks great...however it is not the period piece that I was looking for.  This design is too modern but since it turned out well, I will pattern it later.  So back to the drawing board (quite literally) to create a different pattern draft in a more period appropriate shape.

Prototyping is an important step in the process to see what the final product will look like.  For garment patterns, I use an inexpensive fabric for creating the prototype.  It has to be a very similar type of fabric for draping purposes.  The pieces become a drawing surface in itself as I write any adjustments directly on it.    However for prototyping smaller projects such as a stocking I use the actual final fabric...the confidence comes from years of working with textiles, knowing my own limitations, many mistakes along the way which were invaluable learning experiences & discovering that changing horses is OK.  My first try did not turn out as I imagined but rather than wrestle with it, I put it aside to become a new design later & started a new draft.

A productive afternoon was spent re-organizing my studio to prepare for a new day tomorrow.   All the fabrics, trims, embellishments, notions & sundry tools that get pulled out over time for various projects needed to be put away.  Somehow things seem to collect in piles during busy periods - even new acquisitions don't always make it out of the shopping bag.  So from the chaos of piles back to an orderly arrangement with everything grouped & tucked away...looking forward to beginning refreshed in the morn.