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The making of a Rococo BJD Wig

Sharing the journey of the making of a tall or exaggerated height Rococo Wig ... often referred to as a "pouf" or Marie Antoinette style from the 18th century.  

The three objectives for this wig were: 

1) to create a wig with a permanent or dedicated style; 
2) light weight given the height & over all size of the style;
3) to remain pliable or soft enough to allow for different embellishments to used (pinned in) once finished.

The making of the wig is in the stages as follows:


                   A - Creating the underlying structure
                   B - Making the spiral curls
                   C - Decorative Styling

Based largely on historical paintings, there seemed to be a rough correlation between the length of the face & height of the pouf.  I opted to use as a guide, the distance from the doll's chin up to the edge of the wig cap & then made the starting or "central tower" this size.  The proportions & measurements used:

   central tower (base) = 2.5" (6.35cm)
   from edge of wig cap to top of tower (once attached) = 5.5" (13.97cm)
   short weft length (used to cover underlying structure) = 6.5" (16.51cm)
   long weft length (used for decorative styling) = 16" (40.64cm)
      each of the wefts was approximately 6" (15.24cm) wide
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From wig cap, wefts & batting


To the finished wig...
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Rococo Wig - Side View
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Rococo Wig - Front View
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Rococo Wig - Back View



A - Creating the underlying wig structure

materials used:
   Wig wefts - prepared using the Wig Wefts Tutorial; 2 long wefts & 3 short wefts
   Wig cap - previously made; the wig cap shown is crocheted & lined, any type of wig cap can be used; 
   Batting - handful of batting; had numerous irregular strips which were cutoffs from quilt making
   Glue Gun

Batting is used to build the underlying structure or base of the wig. 

Step 1 - Mark the position of the "pouf" on the wig cap.  It is helpful to confirm the placement by putting the wig cap on the doll & adjust marking if necessary.

Step 2 - Attach long wefts to inside of wig cap edge.  These will be used in the next stages, first curled then styled in the final stage.
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Mark position of the "pouf" on the wig cap.
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Attach long wefts to inside of cap edge.

Step 3 - Form & attach central "tower". I rolled up batting to the desired height, secured the ends with glue & glued it to the marked position;

Step 4 - Balance the transition from cap to tower by adding a second layer of batting creating a cone.  A strip of batting was glued starting just above the wig cap edge & wound around to the top.  Blend edges of batting if necessary using glue & gun tip.
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Form central tower & attach at marked position.
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Start 2nd layer of batting just above cap edge.
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Attach 2nd layer of batting to cover cap & tower.
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If needed, blend batting edges by applying a bit of glue & smooth tip of glue gun.
Step 5 - Attach short wefts to edge of wig cap just below batting.
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Attach short wefts to outside edge of wig cap.
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View of hair wefts - long below & short above.
Step 6 - Select small section, approximately 1" (2.54cm) of short hair weft & comb.

Step 7 - Glue section of combed hair to top of tower.
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Comb a small section of the short weft layer.
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Glue section of combed hair to top of tower
Step 8 - Repeat steps 6 & 7 going all the way around using only short wefts.
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Repeat combing & gluing small sections for the entire layer of short hair wefts all the way around the wig.



B - Making the spiral curls






materials used:
   Straws cut in half - will be used as curlers
   Bobby pins - hold hair on curlers
   Hot water & Comb.




The hair wefts were made using a fold over technique resulting in a double layer.  Making the spiral curls will be done in 2 layers. 
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Step 1 - Select small section, approximately 1" (2.54cm), of half the long hair weft & comb.

Step 2 - Moisten the section with water & twist it tightly.  This makes it easier to roll onto curlers.
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Comb small section of long hair weft.
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Moisten section & twist it tightly.
Step 3 - Roll twisted hair section tightly onto straw from the end towards the cap.  Secure end with a bobby pin by inserting the rippled portion inside the straw & flat portion next to hair.  Secure top with another bobby pin.

Step 4 - Repeat, going all the way around using only half of the long wefts.
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Roll twisted hair onto to curler tightly.
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Rolled spiral curls.
A second row of spiral curls will be made with the remainder of the long hair wefts.  To avoid gaps at the edge of the wig cap, select the first section of hair between two sections of the previous row - mid point of one to the mid point of the adjacent one.

Step 5 - Repeat steps 1 through 4 curling the remaining hair.  Note the second row of curls is shown using green straws as curlers.
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Select section of hair overlapping previous sections.
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Second row of curls fall in between first row.
For the type of hair that is being used (loose curly doll hair), the curls must be heat set.  The method that works best is hot water.   It is easy to control & provides even heat because the curled hair is completely immersed.

A plastic container was filled with near boiling water.  The end of the comb was inserted through the top of the wig into the batting base & the curlers inserted into the water for 30 seconds.
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Hot water, near boiling.
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Insert curlers for 30 seconds.
Remove from hot water & place wig on towel spreading out curlers.  Let dry overnight.  Once completely dry, remove bobby pins & gently slide out straw.
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Spread curlers to dry overnight.
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Spiral Rococo curls.
Create some mini spirals from the leftover section of short weft.  These will be used as accents curls at either side of the wig draping down by the ears.  Separate the spirals & glue the ends to secure any loose hair.
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Mini Spirals from short weft
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Mini Spirals separated & ends glued

C - Decorative styling

The spiral curls, made above, each has a bit of a frayed end from combing & the curling process.  The first step to styling was neatening up the ends of the spiral curls & using the clipped frayed ends to blend the wig cap edge.  

Step 1 - Hold the frayed hair end & clip then glue the ends to edge of wig cap; repeat all the way around. This softens the transition & completely covers the wig cap edge.
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Clip end of spiral curl
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Glue frayed end to edge of wig cap
Step 2 - Place the wig on the doll & mark the position of the ears on either side with a pin (purple straight pin shown below).  Remove wig & place on wig stand for styling.

Step 3 - Select a long spiral curl that will be left draping down just behind the ear.   Mark it in some way, e.g. with a bobby pin, so that it is clearly identified.  I opted to have the drape on the left hand side.

Step 4 - Starting at one side by the ear, lightly loosen a spiral curl long enough to reach the top.  Bring it up to top of the wig, give the hair a twist, at the top only, place a small dab of glue on the under side of the twist & glue to top. 
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Gently loosen a spiral curl from cap edge
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Twist at the top & glue in place
Step 5 - Clip spiral curl, just past the center point at the top & set aside.  A bobby pin, on the clipped spiral, helps to hold the hair together.  Place the bobby pin on the spiral before clipping it.  Repeat for each of the spiral curls at the sides around the ear (marked with a pin).  
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Place bobby on spiral, before clipping to hold hair ends together
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Top view of the wig after side spirals were glued & clipped
Step 6 - Work the back sections of spiral curls in same fashion as above (loosen spiral, bring section up, twist) but glue approximately 3/4's of the way up & clip.

Step 7 - Work the front sections of spirals - loosen, bring section up the front, twist & glue at the front, carry twist up & over top to the back down to just above the cut back section (approximately 1/4 of the way down), glue in place & clip.

Place the front sections in rows across the top, snugged up against each other.
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Top red pin shows side sections glued & clipped; lower red pin marks back sections glued 3/4 of the way up & clipped
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Front sections coming over the top in rows & glued at back
Step 8 - Take one of the clipped spiral sections & glue end at the back about 1/4 of the way down.  Bring it toward the front & form loops cascading down the center front.  Form a loop & place a small dab of glue to hold in place, then form the next, etc.  

I created 3 loop cascades - one down center front & one on each side above the ear.  The center front one is slighlty shorter than the ones at the side.
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Glue spiral at the back & bring toward the front
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Loop cascade
Step 9 - Form a hair twist for the center back.  Using the left over piece of long hair weft, comb out in sections.  Clipboard is handy to hold the weft during combing.
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Piece of long weft
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Comb out in small sections
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Combed long weft
Twist combed section, tightly & evenly, from the the top all the way to the bottom & fold up to the top.  Glue ends to top at the weft & clip frayed ends (set aside to be used later).  Glue hair twist to the back approximately 3/4 of the way up covering the previously glued section ends.
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Partially twisted combed section
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Fold twisted section up to top & glue
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Glue to center back
Step 10 - Create hair rolls & glue to back of the wig.  The hair by itself does not hold a roll well & is difficult to work with.  As an underlying structure for the roll I used felt.  To create rolls slightly larger than the spirals, wrap the felt around straw rollers used to make spirals. 
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Create hair rolls for the back of the Rococo Wig

a) Cut felt pieces in the desired width & in a length that overlaps slightly around the straw.  

I used rolls of various widths - the smallest at the center back covering the sewn weft of the hair twist & getting slightly wider from top to bottom, for a total of 9 rolls.

b) Wrap felt around straw & glue ends together.

c) Take a spiral section & glue ends evenly along felt join.  If necessary comb the hair (clipboard is handy for holding the hair).

d) Wrap the hair around the felt, evenly & tightly.  Just before the frayed ends, glue down & clip frayed ends (set aside).

Slide felt hair roll off of the straw.
To cover ends of felt hair roll, glue small coil of rolled hair.  Tuck any loose bits of hair into the roll.
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Coil of hair hair glued to end of felt
For the bottom roll, glue a spiral section to one side of the roll.  Repeat for the other side, gluing spiral to opposite edge of the roll.
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Bottom roll with spiral glued to one side of roll
Step 11 - Glue rolls to back of the wig.  Run a row of hot glue on the back (where the hair ends are glued) of the roll & hold in place on the wig until glue cools & is secure.

Start with the smallest roll & glue to cover twist weft.  Glue largest rolls with attached spiral drape, so that the spiral is hanging next to the center twist, to bottom at an angle on either side of the twist.  Glue remainder of tolls on either side between top & bottom rolls.  

To finish off the wig at the back glue a spiral just above the center roll.
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Glue hair rolls to back of wig
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Glue spiral above center roll
Step 12 - The finishing touches for the wig:  

Glue the mini spiral sections to the inside of the wig at either side by the ear.  One next to the long spiral on the left & a couple on the right side.

Glue a light layer of frayed ends to inside of wig cap.  This softens the cap edge around the wig making it look more natural & less like a wig.
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Glue mini spirals to inside of wig cap at either side
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Glue frayed ends to inside of wig cap
The Rococo wig is ready to wear ... add some hair embellishments to match the Rococo gown!
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